Changing Impressions

I came to Japan nine months ago and must say I’ve gotten pretty accustomed to life here. So much so that I can hardly remember what I found curious when I first came here, it all seems to normal now. Maybe the best way to distinguish between my first and now changed impressions would be to consider what I will miss when I go back home. The perfect lines waiting at bustops calmly, compared to the rush for seats at home. Why rush, the person before you has been standing there longer and deserves the seat. Its polite and makes so much sense. Then saying “Ohayoo gozaimasu” to every person you see in the morning while cycling to university. Its common curtesy and just plain friendly. My home, London, is known for being perfectly anonymous and while Japan also has its anonymous ways, bowing slightly to acknowlege someone with a smile and greeting them has become second nature to me. Another thing thats going to stay in my mind is how everyone owns an umbrella and you never see someone walking in the rain without one.

Chopsticks which I once found to be little tools of torture, I now find to be way too undervalued in the West. I’ve even eaten ice cream with them!

Then there is Japan’s consumerism. You’ve heard about it, but only when you come to Japan and go to Shinsaibashi (the shopping district) can you truly picture what they are talking about. All those gadgets in different colours and all those clothing stores with their individual brands really are a shopper’s paradise.

Purikura is something I will also sorely miss. Although I wish we had purikura machines in England, I know they wouldn’t stand a chance, but be vandalized and broken within days.

The fact that photo machines in Japan are not vandalized while in my country that would be a certainty, is quite the hint to Japan’s sense of propriety. You could leave something lying in the park or on a bench and while in London it would have been stolen in seconds, in Japan it will stay exactly where you left it until you come back to pick it up.

Lastly, onsens are a fantastic idea and although I cannot imagine them implementing anything like it in London for close to the price they do it here, there’s an investment opportunity right there!

Waheey to vending machines and takoyaki, Sayonara.

Japanese Politics

When you cycle around Hirakata-shi or shop in Kyoto, every once in a while you may notice one of these.

Campaign posters. They are mostly found hung on people’s houses or out on the street somewhere. On some mornings you are woken up by little cars with speakers droning on about some or other campaigning politician. So is Japan politically active?

At my home university there are a very large number of political societies, from Model United Nations to the European Society and more. All over students have an opinion. Japan however is one of the countries with the lowest voter turnouts in the world. Kansai Gaidai only has one class on politics, let alone societies and no one is compelled to take it. On questioning Kansai Gaidai pupils, many said they had never had a politics class in their lives as it is not compulsory to be taught in High School. The only people who vote and participate in elections it seems, is Japan’s aging generation. In the observational documentary “Campaign” (Winner at Berlin’s Film Festival) we saw that mostly old people stopped in the street to listen to campaigners or take their leaflets. One of the main problems is that Japanese politicians focus on senior support as there are so many of them. Old people in the countryside are the people that vote the most. They are also the people that are most well-off, as political policies are aimed to gain their support. Taxes for the elderly are low and there are many incentives to further better their lives. This has caused the young generation to completely lose interest. Politicians are not focussing on youth votes and young people have nothing to vote for. I have never met so many politically apathetic young people as I have in Japan.

Moreover, Japanese politicians are known for making promises and then not fulfilling them. The new party currently in power has already lost a staggering amount of confidence as few of their promised policies have seen the light of day. How can a country where young people are hardly educated in politics and have no trust in politicians entice a young generation of innovative politicians to establish themselves?

Japanese Cars

Japanese cars…what can I say. Well-renowned, have a fantastic reputation, are the leaders of innovation and manufacture the most famous and good-looking cars.

BAM! Wouldnt we all want one? When I left to go to Japan my brother said “Take lots of pictures…especially of the cars! – Man, that movie Tokyo Drift was filmed there!!” So off I went.Little did I know that Japanese cars, the one’s we know and hear of mostly, are exported and rarely stay in the country. Instead of the super-fast, super-new mega cars, THIS is what one is confronted with most in Japan.

BOXES. Box-cars overrun the nation of Japan. Wherever you look there are black and white little lego-like boxes on wheels. If one of these cars was seen on the streets of London, it would not be a common sight to see people stop, stare and laugh and the poor victim having to drive such a vehicle. Personally, I have never once seen a car like that on the streets of my hometown, let alone any other of the European countries I have visited. One of the most famous and successful shows on television in the last few years has been the British car show “Top Gear”. All I can say is that they would absolutely ridicule anyone seen riding or owning a car like that. So why are they a given in Japan? How come on my way home from university (a total of 7 minutes on bike) there were at least 10 examples of these cars.

Well as with everything in Japan I think the reason lies with the excruciating need for everything to be small, convenient and most of all efficient. This includes homes as well. It is known that Japanese custom strongly advises against any sign of showcasing one’s wealth. Japanese CEO’s are known for still living in quaint, little houses with efficient little cars. Why have something splashy, when something non-splashy is more financially sound and just as efficient. In a society that is not as individualistic as the west, no wonder these cars have a market.

perfect fit!

Japanese Fashion

n this post I’m going to focus on female fashion in particular and discuss two styles of clothing that I have noticed are very popular here.

When I first started attending Kansai Gaidai University the first thing I noticed about its Japanese students was how fashionably each and everyone dressed. It looked like not only the girls but also the guys had stepped straight out of the catalouge. From the perfectly assembled hairstyle to the high-scaling heels, Japanese girls are following trends.

Examples of two styles that stand out:

“The Chick”

These girls mostly have long flowing hair, most likely extensions, wear heavy fake eyelashes and lots of makeup. They are categorized by their short skirts or hot pants, combined with black leggins and high heels. A black leather jacket or a shrug is teamed with a leather handbag.

“The Cutie”

These girls have mid-length hair most of the time, that is either wavy or pinned up in a casual bun. They wear pastel colours with whites and beiges. Think frilly shirts and flowery dresses, long peasant skirts and straw hats. Makeup is made to look natural with a healthy pink glow.

It is very interesting how important outer looks seem to be among Japanese youth. Everyone’s hair is dyed and no one looks like they just stepped out of bed, which is a common site usually. I guess first impressions must be a big thing here where you are judged on how you present yourself. It seems to me however that the way you dress automatically determines how people guess your personality to be. The chicks are fun-loving and like to go clubbing, shopping and socializing, while the cuties for example seem much more innocent and creatively inclined. By picking out specific clothes and choosing how you look, people are picking how they want the rest of the students to see them.

Annie Leibovitz and Jim Nachtwey Short Documentaries

Annie Leibovitz is a very successful American portrait photographer, who is renowned for having been continuously featured in Rolling Stones Magazine, toured with the Rolling Stones and had the opportunity to take the last portrait of John Lennon before his assassination in 1980.

Her photo philosophy involved “recording […] what our life is” and becoming “part of it”. Annie explained that she was infatuated with her surroundings and that it was her mission to capture the stories and images “between the main moments”. She underlined the fact that the more you understand the “subculture slice of life”, the more power you held.

Annie was known for making her portrait subjects feel good. When touring with the Rolling Stones, it was commented how unobtrusive her manner was and that she would never be in the way of the natural flow of things. If anything, you were hardly aware of her presence at all. This would make her subjects relax and give her the opportunity to capture amazing “slice of life” moments which would otherwise have been very difficult to master.

However, what made Annie so successful and unforgettable, what made her a cult classic, was her narrative and conceptional covers in magazines. Something about her subject would be incorporated to make their presence on paper stronger. In her opinion it was vital to capture a picture and connect it to concepts that meant something to her audience, to the people.

Concludingly it is her belief that “life is bigger than a one dimensional moment” that influenced her art most definitely and determined her absolute success in photographic history.

James “Jim” Nachtwey:

“If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough”      – Robert Capa

Jim Nachtwey is an American photojournalist and war photographer.

He has worked on numerous projects including photographing the war in Kosovo which was then published by the famous STERN magazine based in Hamburg. His primary cause for becoming a war photographer was to show the world “what was really happening”, but when he was confronted with the truth in light of political hypocrisy he became very affected and it took him a long time to feel confident. Contradictory to political opinions he was confronted with an unjust and cruel world he then felt obligated to show the rest of the world. Another reason for Jim’s urge to document war was giving ordinary people, the world would have otherwise forgotten, a voice. To be able to witness history while capturing unbelievable evidence of injustice and then forwarding this to worldwide media stations was not only extremely exciting but the most worthwhile part of it all for him.

In order to capture authentic emotion it was important for Jim Nachtwey to be part of the action. As civilized code is suspended in war, acting respectively and unobtrusively secured him the acceptance of his subjects. He never moved too fast or spoke to loudly, thus never hindering the natural flow of action. His pictures know no boundaries as he photographs pain, suffering, grief and destruction. It seems as if he needs to photograph what conventional photographers would shy away from.

In his interview of Jim Nachtwey, the editor of Stern described him as someone who is not arrogant, but also has to be pushed for information. A quiet person who sees himself as bulletproof, needs danger to feel alive and has no qualms in throwing himself in the most dangerous of situations. The editor also notes how Jim’s “Bibliothek des Leidens” (library of suffering) that he has accumulated over the years, has left quite an impact and changed the man. He seems to be a broken and lonely person, who’s experiences seperate him from the rest of his colleages. While other photographers in his field need hours to discuss what they have seen in order to get it from their hearts and minds, Jim Nachtwey is renowned for staying composed but silent.

Perhaps greatness doesn’t come without personal sacrifice..

Portrait of a Japanese Person

Meet Nacchan (Natsuki)!

Nacchan is my Japanese Speaking Partner and we first started emailing when I hadn’t even returned to Kansai Gaidai yet. Being an extension student I had already had the experience of a Speaking Partner in my previous semester which had not worked out very well. This time however I quickly realised how well the CIE staff had matched us.

Nacchan is 19 years old and comes from Kobe. She has recently moved into an apartment near the university, where she lives alone. She studies English and German at Hotani campus and this is her first year at university.

One look at Nacchan, with her loud and colourful sense of fashion and infectious smile, you can imagine how likable she is. She has this incomprehensible ability to completely disarm you with her genuine grin and giggle. When I was taking pictures of her we were standing in the rain after having just had dinner. Although she comes across as very secure and confident judging from her appearance, she became extremely camera-shy in the picture taking process. Nacchan didn’t mind me taking pictures of her clothes and bag, posing in quick succession, but as soon as I started to focus on her face she’d start squirming “Nooo Anjii, that’s sooo baaad!”.

Suddenly a tun of rain washed over us and we looked up at the sky, laughing. Thats when I caught this lovely picture. You see her in all her colourful glory, looking up at the sky, a giant grin spread across her face at our feeble attempts to beat the elements.

I think Nacchan is a very beautiful person. On the one hand she’s this tiny (four foot nothing^^) neon-coloured, bubbly minx, while on the other hand she’s a very responsible person. She’s living alone for the first time , which she admitted to me can be very lonely. Moreover she is working part time at the moment in Tsutaya, six days a week in order to juggle rent. While she is energetic and “genki”, she also portrays a certain vulnerabilty which adds to her charm.

On a final note, it has to be mentioned how much of a music lover this girl is. Never without her iPod or the newest CD, she loves to listen to music.

Rock on, Nacchan!

Neighbourhood Hirakata

I’m a very cosmopolitan person seeing as I grew up in London, one of the biggest cities in the world. Coming to Japan and living in a suburbian town outside of Osaka added to the whole surreal feel of my study abroad experience. The neighbourhood I live in now seems to be mostly inhabited by pensioners. They proon their gardens, have the tendency to do yoga every morning at sunup in the nearby park and love taking their tiny little dogs for a walk. While there are some that just stare at you when you go past, most nod, smile and throw you a greeting. A perfect picture neighbourhood really.

For me the most visited part of this neighbourhood at the beginning of my stay in September was the small park near the Seminar houses. It was summer and the perfect place to congregate. One of the things I noticed was that there was a sign there prohibiting any ball games, on Sundays however the park would be filled with dads and their sons playing catch or baseball. The sign must be completely ineffective and useless, Japanese families do not pay any attention to it so I wonder who it is trying to keep away.

Opposite the park next to the convenience store is a small, family-run okinomiyaki restaurant. It was there that I had my first encounter with okinomiyaki and Japanese food in general. There are only two tables seating four inside, and whenever I go you can always find a random neighbour seated at the cooker chatting away to the restaurant owner while once in a while glancing at the TV, showcasing a ridiculous drama.

One day when I was cycling around in the neighbourhood I came across this. In my city graffiti is everywhere, but in the picturesque little neighbourhood of Hirakata this was a surprising find. If anything Hirakata is the cleanest neighbourhood I’ve ever been in and so I didn’t expect to find graffiti. With Japan’s orderliness and sense of propriety I would love to know what young rebellious teenager had created this and what his motives were.

The part of the nieghbourhood I have so far most frequented is the little road that leads to university. Every morning the “ryugakusei” take their bikes and cycle along this walkway. What I recommend however is to be on your guard. Not only do little trucks and cars speed along this small road, I have many times encountered mad little old ladys on mopeds waving umbrellas. Another thing to watch out for are school children intent on practising their English. They will stand in your way and shout “Hello, how are you”. Sweet, as long as you don’t accidentally run them over.

All in all I have to admit I love living here. The community is friendly and quiet and comes very close to everyone’s clichee of a peaceful neighbourhood.

Impressions of Japan: The Return

Impressions of Japan, where could I possibly start..

I’ve already been here for a semester but when I came back from winter break (I went home to London for a month) a whole new wave of impressions hit me as soon as I left the aircraft in Osaka airport.

The first thing that caught my attention was that the Japanese split arrivals not into “nationals” and “foreigners”, but into “nationals” and “aliens”. Perhaps this was due to an unfortunate translation mistake or maybe it hints at the historical implications and linguistic lack of space concerning the word “foreign” and resulting in the impression that the Japanese feel more distant to foreigners than people in other countries do. The whole “gaijin” (outsider) phenomenon is a common topic among international students. The ueber-polite Japanese seem to still hold a certain wariness towards anyone that doesn’t look Japanese. My friend recently complained about the fact that no Japanese person dared sit next to him on a crowded bus. The seat next to him was left vacant.

It seems to me that the Japanese have a very strict sense of morals and customs. A great sense for propriety. Who ever heard of a train having the slightest delay or there being a single scrap of paper or rubbish on the pavement? When I went to Spa World a fantastic sign was posted outside the establishment.

“We reserve the right to refuse entry to those who do not follow our code of etiquette.

If you enter we have you leave.”

This is a great example of the Japanese fascination with acting in a wholesome manner. Underneath this introductory statement is a list of people who should refrain from coming.

“Person connected to crime syndicate and person who has tattoo.”

“Person who has gotten dead drunk.”

On another topic, once inside we decided to try the okinomiyaki.

Six months after I first tried the Japanese cuisine, I can honestly conclude that okinomiyaki is my favourite dish and however much sushi I try, I will never like it.

Trying to describe okinomiyaki to friends and family at home has been quite a task. “Its like a pancake, but made out of cabbage and batter. And there’s meat inside. With sauce on top!”

Okinomiyaki will definitely be one dish that I will sorely miss.

Walking along one of the many busy roads in Osaka, my friend and I came across quite a peculiar image. At the side of the road about twenty traffic cones were positioned next to the pavement. Behind of each of these very pointless seeming traffic cones, there was a traffic attendant stationed. The men stood straight and looked determinedly ahead in their uniforms.

Japan is famous for providing an enourmous amount of jobs to its citizens which in turn has made the economy boom. All over Japan one can witness jobs that the government of their own country would never have thought of. I’ve heard that there are hundreds of roads leading out into the countryside but in truth not leading anywhere. They just end.

What I find fantastic however is that the Japanese don’t seem to mind what they do. It seems to me that whatever their job, whether it is working at McDonalds, guiding people over a three metre crossing or working as a CEO, they are all intent on what they’re doing and try to do their best. I think that picture proves how well the government in Japan is managing to distribute jobs. Not only does almost everyone in Japan seem to have a job, they seem to be happy to be doing whatever they’re doing. When you walk into the Mcdonalds at university, the staff are extremely friendly and helpful. As I sat down to eat my chicken burger the other day, I took off the mayonaise. Almost immediatly one of the McDonald staff members came running up to me, asking whether they had made a mistake, wheher I had wanted the burger without mayonaise and finally whether she could possibly bring me a new one. I sat there in shock at how kind she was being while I had simply been too lazy to ask for the burger without the mayonaise. I muttered a pathetic “daijoubu desu” which was greeted with a deferential bow and a smile. This was unlike anything I’m used to in England. People working in fast food restaurants are known to be unhappy stressed out people, who would rather spit in your food than offer you a new one because you didn’t happen to like it. It seems to me as if the Japanese are passionate about everything they set out to do, whether an illusion or not, they would never have let you believe that they weren’t making their best effort.

Impressions never end. Many may be uneducated, ignorant and faulty, but all are important and tell you a lot. I hope to make many more.